A _paprika handl_ was soon prepared
for me. In all parts of the country where travellers are possible, the
invariable reply to a demand for something to eat is the query, "Would
the gentleman like _paprika handl_?" and he had better like it, for his
chances are small of getting anything else. While I was seeing after my
horse, the woman of the inn caught a miserable chicken, which I am sure
could have had nothing to regret in this life; and in a marvellously
short time the bird was stewed in red pepper, and called _paprika
handl_.
I was aware that Count M---- owned a good deal of property in the
neighbourhood of Bueksad, and as I had a letter of introduction to his
bailiff, I set off the next morning to find him. My object in coming to
this particular part of the country was principally to explore that
curious place Mount Buedos, mentioned by Dr Daubeny and others. I wanted
to see for myself what amount of sulphur deposits were really to be
found there. Count M----'s bailiff was very ready to be obliging, and he
provided me with a guide, and further provided the guide with a horse,
so that I had no difficulty in arranging an expedition to the mount of
evil smell.
Having arranged the commissariat as usual, I started one fine morning
with my guide. We rode for about two hours through a forest of majestic
beech-trees, and then came almost suddenly, without any preparation,
upon a beautiful mountain lake, called St Anna's Lake.
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