One of the men spoke German, and with him I talked. He had elicited from
me the fact of my being an Englishman, whereupon he asked me a variety
of questions about our mines and our forests. Finally he inquired
whether our bears were as large as theirs. When I told him we had none
he could not credit it, saying, "But you must have bears on the
frontier?" When I explained that we lived upon an island he seemed much
surprised. I saw that his natural politeness prevented his saying what
was in his mind, but it was evident he thought that if the English lived
in an island they could not be such a great people after all.
Not wishing to put my host to expense, more especially as the expedition
was undertaken solely for my benefit and at my suggestion, I paid the
score at the Balanbanya Inn without saying anything. I was very vexed to
find, however, that by doing so I had offended my companion very much.
He reminded me that I was a stranger in Szeklerland and his guest, and
it was contrary to all his ideas of hospitality that I should be the
paymaster. Instead of starting homewards, as we were ready to do, he
ordered more wine and some sardines, being the greatest delicacy the
house afforded. I was obliged to make a show of partaking of something
more, though I had amply supped. For these extras of course my friend
paid, but he was only half appeased, and was never quite the same again.
The following morning I left the house of my too-hospitable
entertainers.
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