Excepting the Peak, the eye receives little
pleasure from the general face of the country, which is sterile and
uninviting to the last degree. The town, however, from its cheerful
white appearance, contrasted with the dreary brownness of the back
ground, makes not an unpleasing coup d'oeil. It is neither irregular in
its plan, nor despicable in its style of building; and the churches and
religious houses are numerous, sumptuous, and highly ornamented.
The morning of our arrival, as many officers as could be spared from the
different ships were introduced to the Marquis de Brancifort, Governor
of the Canary Islands, whose reception was highly flattering and polite.
His Excellency is a Sicilian by birth, and is most deservedly popular in
his government. He prefers residing at Teneriffe, for the conveniency
of frequent communication with Europe, to the Grand Canary, which is
properly the seat of power; and though not long fixed here, has already
found means to establish a manufactory in cotton, silk, and thread,
under excellent regulations, which employs more than sixty persons, and
is of infinite service to the common people.
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